New York is rife with great latkes, from crisp disks of lacy potato shreds to what are essentially fried mashed-potato patties
Shelsky’s latkes. Photo: Melissa Hom It’s hard not to love a latke. The golden-brown potato fritters, which are a hallmark of Hanukkah celebrations and a ubiquitous menu item at Jewish delicatessens, tick all the comfort-food boxes: crunchy, starchy, salty, and a little bit sweet. But not all latkes are created equal. The best specimens are light rather than leaden and have multidimensional flavor.
The potato latkes at Cobble Hill’s smoked-fish shop and delicatessen are textbook perfect — toasty and golden with onion-forward flavor and copious flecks of flinty black pepper. But the true showstoppers are the sweet-potato-and-celeriac latkes. The sunset-colored fritters are custardy and gently sweet with a flavor at once familiar and unexpected. And the lacy, caramelized edges are obsession worthy.
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