Like their meaty counterparts, these masterworks rely on balance, textural contrast, zesty condiments, good bread, and fresh ingredients
R&D Foods’ Kale Salad Sandwich. Photo: Roque Nonini The problem with vegetarian sandwiches is the name: It sounds like something’s missing. Vegetable sandwiches, on the other hand, sound celebratory. Henceforth, no matter the title of this listicle, we intend to call vegetarian sandwiches vegetable sandwiches.
Back around the turn of the millennium, when roughage aficionados subsisted on arugula and escarole, Ilene Rosen invented kale salad, or so the legend goes. Or if she didn’t actually invent it, she at least popularized it by stocking City Bakery’s cult salad bar with the savory stuff — a crunchy, piquant tangle of well-massaged curly kale riddled with red onion, hazelnuts, and Grana Padano cheese.
Never mind what the muffuletta mavens say about the bread. The key to the great New Orleans sandwich is the olive-salad condiment. And no one does a zingier olive salad than those superb sandwich artists over at Court Street Grocers. For their vegetarian take , they swap out the meat for slices of butternut squash whose sweetness serves as a foil for the briny tang of the salad and the sharpness of the cheese.
Photo: Melissa Hom As it has for well over a century, the excellent Sicilian snack shop deep-fries thin slabs of chickpea fritters until they’re nice and crisp, and then tucks them into toasty, house-baked semolina rolls along with creamy ricotta and salty Pecorino Romano. One heavenly bite and you could be in Palermo.
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