We taste tested the latest Instagram food craze
Flipper’s strawberry soufflé pancakes. Photo: Emily Denniston It’s already October, and with the end of the year fast approaching, New York was in danger of going through all of 2019 without a Cronut-like, rainbow-bageled, extreme-milkshake food craze. Luckily, Flipper’s — a Japanese chain that specializes in “miracle pancakes” — opened in Soho last week, and the city’s #influencers could breathe easy.
The hostess, a diminutive woman with red-orange lipstick and the commanding presence of someone twice her size, led me upstairs to a sparsely decorated dining room with light wooden tables and the de rigueur neon sign . Nothing about the room screamed “Japan”: The majority of the staff were Americans or non-Asian, the music coming through the speakers was ’80s American pop, and the menu featured standard brunch fare like eggs Benedict and French fries.
Every chain has its proprietary secret, but the basic premise of a soufflé pancake is this: Make a standard pancake batter — flour, egg yolks, baking powder, and vanilla — and then whip in a delicate meringue . The batter is poured into ring molds to keep it from spreading and then cooked at a low temperature so the pancakes can rise slowly. Each side is cooked for three to four minutes, so it’s no wonder than an order of three pancakes can take a while to make, even on a quiet day.
34 minutes after I ordered, my own strawberry pancakes arrived: two coaster-sized, inch-thick cakes, neatly stacked and separated by a layer of fresh strawberries and cream, topped with more cream, and another strawberry. I dutifully took my own picture, mostly for reference, but also to have in case I needed some high-engagement content for my own feed.
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