The best BBQ in every state:
good? Sometimes. The rest—well, they're working on it. There has never been a better time to eat traditional American barbecue, and there has never been a better time to get out there and appreciate a growing number of interpretations, fusions, and thrilling little tweaks, courtesy of an increasingly diverse group of players on the stage.
All of this is praiseworthy, absolutely. Still—a little learning is a dangerous thing, a wise man once said. Right now, you can barely move in this country forbarbecue. Suddenly, we're all championship winners. There are less-than-legal backyard operations, there are pop-ups to chase after, trucks, shacks, fast-casuals, chains both low and highbrow, there are full-blown restaurants.
So—what's good, and what's bad? Beyond the extremely subjective, the who-wore-it-best arguments over regional hierarchies, here's the beautiful thing about barbecue—it speaks for itself, loudly and clearly, one hundred percent of the time. All of the fancy dress—the tricks, the fake-outs, all of the macaroni and cheese, the vats of sauce, the so-called unique concepts, obsessing over Instagram-readiness, the—stalling tactics, all.
With so many of the genre's oldest and best retiring, or passing on—the ones we must never fail to bless for keeping American barbecue tradition alive, in order for it to be able to see this big, exhilarating moment—this almost feels like a matter of great urgency now, this digging back toward the roots of the genre, to celebrate the keepers of the flame in a business where tangible reward can be elusive.
This isn't to say that you have to be old, or that you have to be born into barbecue, to be good at what you do—barbecue culture is where it is now in large part due to a new generation of hard grafters, sometimes very young entrepreneurs who've bootstrapped themselves to where they are today, who have taught themselves to be excellent. In the end, old or new, it is passion, and the beautiful result passion so often delivers, that we wish to celebrate.
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