The year’s best wine books include biographies from established authorities as well as a must-have reference book for anyone who wants to learn more.
Feiring walks a fine line between vanity and vulnerability as wine becomes her portal to a life beyond the confines of her traditional New York City Jewish upbringing, where wine meant Manischewitz with the sabbath meal. For Feiring, wine is about connections — to nature, to the world, and most of all to other people: would-be lovers, even a chatty plumber who shares his own vulnerabilities while taking too long to fix her toilet.
Along the way, Feiring introduces us to some of her favorite natural wine producers, including a husband-and-wife team she describes as “hospitable vegans.” These sections seem perfunctory and suggest that Feiring’s single-minded and often ideological focus on natural wine may have closed her off — or perhaps shielded her — from potential connections with a much broader world.Andrew Jefford is of the British school, a generation younger than Johnson, having begun his wine writing career in 1988.
“Wine has never seemed more superfluous as an edifice, a vast palace of fussiness; yet its essence, as not just a physical but a psychological or spiritual restorative, has never been more useful,” he writes. “Much and sometimes all of the customary texture of life has been stripped away, so we treasure that which fortifies resolve — like a glass of wine at day’s end. Wine, for the time being, has gone elemental.
Jefford’s essays are like that glass of wine at day’s end — restorative, uplifting and enlightening. You may want to read another before putting down the bottle — I mean, the book.New wine lovers beginning to explore the horizons beyond the glass or anyone needing a one-stop reference book should look no further than the third edition ofMacNeil has updated this third edition with color photos and new sections on ancient wine history and climate change. I enjoy opening the book at random.
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