People want good, local beef. Eater Young Gun Jason Chow (’19) wants to provide it
on commercial boats — probably because so much of it happens far away from most people. Local I‘a offers radical transparency. It tells consumers the name of the fisher who caught the seafood, and when and where they caught it. All the fishers adhere to fishing standards which Local I‘a developed by combining traditional Hawaiian fishing knowledge with principles from the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch and Marine Stewardship Council.
, one of the city’s essential restaurants. Ed Kenney, the chef and owner, says Chow “made interpretations of classic Hawai‘i dishes,” turning pork scraps into, a Chinese sausage, or creating a duck terrine with the flavors of Peking duck. “He would take these charcuterie techniques and make them relevant to Hawai‘i,” Kenney says.
This wasn’t always the case. In the ’40s and ’50s, the cattle stayed in Hawai‘i and supplied the entire local market. After World War II, a pent-up demand for meat coincided with an excess of cheap corn, and large feedlots spread in the U.S. and arrived in Hawai‘i. Cattle raised on grain gained weight and fat more quickly, a plus for ranchers, and consumers began to prefer grain-fed beef over grass-fed.
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