The food here is good. So very, very good
Estate agents talk a lot about ‘kerb appeal’. It can make or break a sale. If the same thing applied to That’s Thai, it would have closed its doors long ago. They may not have opened in the first place.
So, despite the unprecedented and well-documented pressures facing the catering trade right now, owner Wan Hewitt looks to be nailing it, though the prices have risen a bit since before the pandemic, by around £1.50 a dish. But the food is still every bit as dazzling, even at a necessarily inflated price.
But on this occasion, the decision is made to eat in, perched on the shelves around the edge of the café, so there’s nowhere to hide the gluttony. A pad thai is, of course, the benchmark by which all other noodle dishes should be judged, and Wan’s is exemplary, a greasy , intensely savoury tangle of impossible-to-stop-eating wonderfulness.
It’s also like drinking lava, because when asked, I thought ‘sure, I want it spicy’, to show I’m a man of the world. Thai spicy and me spicy are two very different things, so the accompanying jasmine rice helped calm the scorch marks on my tongue and prevent an embarrassed trip to Salford Royal.
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