The Cool City That German Tourists Keep to Themselves

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The Cool City That German Tourists Keep to Themselves
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Nicknamed the southernmost Scandinavian city, Hamburg is a port city and a business hub, but that doesn’t mean that there’s not a lot to see and do there.

. Its port, the country’s largest, is a draw. And the odd but overwhelming collection of large-scale miniature cities at—a place few Americans other than model train enthusiasts have heard of—is often rated Germany’s most popular attraction, higher than Neuschwanstein.

Very little of the city is “historic” in the sense that just one tenth of it is older than a century—the result of Allied bombing and a lack of sentiment when it comes to historic preservation. While there are a few historic buildings, like the neo-Renaissance city hall, most contemporary work pays homage to Hamburg’s great contribution to architectural history—Brick Expressionism.but housed in an elaborate Brick Expressionist work by Fritz Höger, one of the style’s giants.

But the neighborhood as a whole is a dream for the visually hungry. Sprinkenhof, just next door, has a facade decorated with diamond-shaped brickwork and circular terracotta sculptures that are meant to be redolent of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. It was Europe’s largest office building when it was completed.

Rounding out the city’s cultural options are three other major museum-type attractions. The first, the city’s history museum, was, alas, closed while I was in town. The second is its Maritime Museum, housed in the city’s oldest standing warehouse. The third is the city’s biggest attraction—Miniatur Wonderland. The complex of miniature model cities, airports, and mountain ranges opened in 2001.

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