Espresso martinis are the must-order drink of 2021. chrisecrowley reports on why bartenders hate making them
Trend or scourge? Photo: Kim Patrick P. Aguirre/Getty Images Sasha Minkovsky, who works at a Manhattan tech start-up, still remembers the night, earlier this summer, when she watched as a single cocktail nearly broke an entire bar staff. She was at Dr Clark, the Chinatown restaurant that’s become a hit with the downtown art crowd. And on this particular night, everyone wanted the same drink: an espresso martini.
This was hardly an isolated incident. Way back in 2016, Grub Street wondered if this relatively simple drink — invented in London after a model asked for a drink that would, the story goes, “wake her up, then fuck her up” — was poised for a comeback. This summer, we finally got our answer: “If you aren’t drinking espresso martinis at a dive bar, you’re not doing it right.”
“I’ve probably made more espresso martinis in the past year than in the rest of my career cumulatively,” says the longtime New York bartender Ben Rojo. Demand has gotten so extreme that, at Café Altro Paradiso in Soho, the bar staff batches its espresso ahead of time to prepare for the deluge of orders that comes in each night.
Another bartender, who asked us not to use her name for fear of offending her own espresso-martini-loving customers, expressed similar reservations about the drink. “I love espresso martinis, but everyone is tired of them because they are annoying,” she explains. She says that the popularity makes the drink even more frustrating, because it’s impossible to tell if people actually like them, or just like that they’re popular. “It’s obnoxious,” she continues, “and also just feels trendy.
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