Market 57 in Manhattan has some real hits, but it also has a lot of room to grow.
. The foundation was certainly involved in the food hall’s creation, but to say that the James Beard Foundation opened a food hall is an over-simplification. The property comes from the real estate firm Jamestown, the same company behind nearby food hall and shopping center, and its president Michael Phillips said that, while JBF provided a longlist, Jamestown actually had final say over restaurant selection.
Could this food hall, specially curated by the James Beard Foundation, live up to the high standard the organization itself has set for restaurants and chefs? In the name of journalism, I tried dumplings, fried chicken, and fresh oysters. I chased a samosa with an entire lobster roll. I bravely had an upset tummy from overeating and barely complained. I spent hours trying more than twenty dishes over three days at what ended up feeling like a good but not particularly unique food hall.
A big part of the food hall’s purpose is to “expose the world to the work of chefs who are really leading the industry forward,” according to Kris Moon, president and COO of the James Beard Foundation. That mission came through more at some stands than others. Highlights included creative dishes from small businesses like the fried chicken spot Bessou and the Harlem-based Caribbean standout LoLo’s.
Kiosks like LoLo’s on the Water, an offshoot of the original LoLo’s in Harlem, serve up mouthwatering dishes like crisp shrimp tacos, and zingy jerk ribs—food infused with real heart and creativity. Mijo, which comes from Fany Gerson of Fan Fan Doughnuts in Brooklyn, serves excellent tacos and a rainbow array of paletas, and feels like a resounding success.
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