Accessible luxury label The Kooples has a rather explicit message for those who have been following, closely or not: “F— the Kooples.”
Her first few months were spent meeting her predecessor, visiting stores and even talking with the founders, as well as “spelunking through the archives and old news clippings” in order to see where the brand had gone off-piste.
In The Kooples’s case, she felt that the brand had frittered its identity away. Rather than try to map out a circuitous route back to basics, Schott felt a reset was in order — in identity and in consumers. The woman she wanted for the job was Capucine Safyurtlu, a former fashion and market editor who had become a creative consultant and had most recently been creative director of footwear label Stella Luna.
For her first collection, for fall 2022, the creative director therefore delved into the brand’s playbook of tailoring, leopard print and plenty of black “which is really the signature color of the brand,” filling the lineup with sharply cut jackets — fitted for her, boxier for him — sweatshirts, pretty dresses, printed shirting galore but also novelties like a windbreaker in an allover monogram using the brand’s new logo.
“We’re not aiming for two-figure growth in the first year and we’re taking the risk of a real reset where we rebuild from the fundamentals. There won’t be carryovers from past collections if they don’t make sense, like say a sneaker that’s been working well but that we feel doesn’t fit who we are. Even though buyers are asking for them, they’re gone,” she said.
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