Our favorite recipe from the new Via Carota cookbook is all about how to braise with milk, a technique that's as easy as it is ancient.
—to thank. Contained within are the secrets of their braciole al latte, pork chops braised in milk, which alerted me to the magic of this technique.
The recipe begins with pork fat—more specifically, with instructions for making strutto, an empyrean paste of pancetta, pork belly, garlic, rosemary, and fennel. You rub down the chops with this mixture, then sear them in a hot skillet on both sides, nestling in a few leaves of lacinato kale. Then in goes the milk, enough to partially drown the chops before you slide the pan into the oven to finish cooking.
Milk-braising relies on lactic acid, which tenderizes meat and inhibits dryness. In an acidic environment, meatand softens more quickly. Then there are the sugars present in dairy, which round out the flavors of whatever’s being braised. As the milk cooks, it curdles—a good thing, for once—and in Sodi and Williams’ braciole, it makes a creamy, aromatic gravy for the chops.
Sodi, who grew up north of Florence, has known about milk-braising for as long as she’s been cooking. People have been braising with milk inand elsewhere for centuries if not longer. “It sounds like something a dairy farmer would do. If you had money, you’d braise in wine with spices,” says Ken Albala, culinary historian and professor at University of the Pacific, who points to recipes for other slow-simmered dishes in early cookbooks.
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