Ireland’s southernmost tip has been reinvigorated by new vibrant venues, markets and restaurants, which has brought an energy that brightens even the darker months
hen our son was very young, we spent several Easter holidays in Baltimore, a beautiful harbour village in West Cork. We took the ferry across Roaringwater Bay to Sherkin Island and Cape Clear, where Fastnet Rock Lighthouse looms in the distance, wistfully known as Ireland’s Teardrop by mournful emigrants setting off across the Atlantic in centuries past.
It’s a four-hour trip from Dublin, and the light is beginning to fade as we drive the final stretch of road from Skibbereen with the reflection of the moon on the River Ilen leading us all the way to dinner. We park in the shadow of 13th-century Dún na Seád castle and the warm glow from the windows of Dede restaurant at theAhmet Dede, centre, head chef and co-owner of Dede, with maître d’ and co-owner Maria Archer and the restaurant team.
Baltimore beckons again in the afternoon and the harbour lies before us as we enter the village, with fishing boats and ferries drawing lines across the glistening bay. St Matthew’s Church has looked out on this view since 1819 and I hear more from Stuart Musgrave about its new life, moonlighting as a music venue. Sadly, there’s nothing scheduled during our stay but as we ascend the stairs to the balcony I imagine the walls vibrating with the sounds of some of Ireland’s most acclaimed musicians.
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