The Modern Pantry Guide to the World's Best Mustards

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The Modern Pantry Guide to the World's Best Mustards
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From ballpark and deli styles to ancient French recipes and sinus-clearing Japanese pastes, these are the essential spreads to try.

that"... a hot dog on the street in New York City, San Francisco, Santa Rosa, anywhere at all, should be topped with any humble ballpark mustard, sharp and bright and perfectly suited to its purpose."

We catch what Michele is going for, but we will stick with the tried and true brand. Until recently, the North American palate has been by and large fearful of picante foods. At the turn of the 20th century, R.T. French, the “largest manufacturer of mustard in western New York State” sought to grow their sluggish business by producing a bright and flavorful mustard with none of the heat of European preparations.

Labeled"French's Cream Salad Brand," the new condiment's instant success permanently changed the American table. French's topped a million dollars in sales in 1915, and in 1926 the family-run company decided to cash out to the English mustard giant Coleman's. Today's popular yellow potion is still bright with white vinegar and lots turmeric powder, along with some added flavorings and sweeteners that appeal to our national sugar addiction.

If you don't live near one of their shops, their mustards"from the pump," packed in beautiful stoneware crocks, are also. With a silky smooth, almost whipped texture and moderate heat, we love the original Dijon with white wine. Edmond Fallot's sharp mustardy bite has earned it the prestige of being Thomas Keller's favorite brand. The classic Dijon and slightly hotter Burgundy version are pantry staples, and this grainy walnut version is a dream with pork, rabbit, or

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