The Quest to Find the Ultimate Fish Taco

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The Quest to Find the Ultimate Fish Taco
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We went on a quest to Baja California to find the ultimate fish taco, and came back with three delicious recipes:

A journey through Baja revealed boundless variations on the coastal classic—these three recipes were the best of the bunch.

Todos Santos is an agriculturally rich oasis in the blistering desert of Baja California Sur, some 50 miles north of Los Cabos. Separating the hotel and the Pacific Ocean is a sweeping poblano chile field that creeps up the Sierra Laguna Mountains. Some guests decompress by pool or under the stars in rooftop hammocks. Others take organic agriculture classes on the on-site kitchen garden or mountain bike through the surrounding farm country.

Unlike densely developed Los Cabos, Todos Santos is quiet. At least for now, there’s plenty of high-quality local fish to go around to both no-fuss stools-in-the-sand restaurants and to more formal, chef-driven kitchens like the one at Paradero. When most think of Baja-style tacos, they imagine battered and deep-fried white fish—and we certainly sampled a lot of that in T.S. Most notable was the version served at Barracuda Cantina, which is Bautista’s favorite in the region.

Back at Paradero, executive chef and Pujol alum Eduardo Ríos takes a more refined approach to the fish taco. His team nixtamalizes heirloom corn for handmade tortillas, which are fired off twice a day on a traditional wood-fired clay comal. Here too, the menu varies with the day’s catch.

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