Salmiak—salty Scandinavian licorice—is an acquired taste. But there's a reason this Nordic favorite is so popular.
, a salt licorice flavor found across Scandinavia, I spit it out on a Copenhagen street corner. It wasn't that this powerful little pastille was. It's just that my taste buds had never quite been lit up that way: smacked with a layer of sharp and sour salt dust, then soothed by something bitter and caramel-sweet. It felt simultaneously fascinating and...abusive? Or at least odd, like a knocked funny bone.
Walk into most Scandinavian 7-11s or grocery stores and you'll be welcomed by a wall of at least two dozen varieties of salt licorice. Like, the treat is molded into everything from skulls to Scottish terriers and in just as broad a range of flavors. In the case of Turkish Peppers, a sticky hard candy that any Swedish child can ID, black pepper adds a spicy dimension. The majority are some shade of black, but some, such as cylindrical School Chalks, have a white candy coating.
If you don't like black jelly beans or Good & Plentys, okay, fine, you're probably never going to bridge the divide to. But if you've got a curious palate, the key to appreciating this lovely oddity is perspective. If you take your first bite anticipating something like candy, as I did, you'll feel a betrayal similar to a giant gulp up of iced tea when you've expected Dr. Pepper.
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