The Underground Gourmet Plan-B Restaurant Determinator

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The Underground Gourmet Plan-B Restaurant Determinator
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Presenting our field-tested, fiasco-averting, starvation-preventing restaurant guide

Rezdôra. Photo: Scott Heins The air is crisp, the leaves are turning, the Jets are probably already out of playoff contention. Fall is here, all right, and with it comes a whole slew of impossible-to-get-into new restaurants. As we’ve noted before, if you want to eat dinner in this town at an hour that would appeal to someone other than a Miami Beach retiree or an insomniac, you need a Navy seal–level contingency plan.

Plan B: The Good Fork Like Red Hook Tavern, Sohui Kim and Ben Schneider’s mom-and-pop shop the Good Fork has charm and personality in spades. The food’s good too: Go for the dumplings, the steak and egg Korean style, the smash burger, and the ramen Bolognese. Wait Here: The Wild Son Photo: Courtesy of Vendor If the Pastis host-stand brigade sends you packing but you want to give it another shot later, nurse a meticulously made cocktail at the Wild Son , a cozy café and bar and that rarest of Meatpacking District species: an unpretentious spot that doesn’t feel like a tourist trap.

The wait: One recent night, a party of two was quoted an hour wait for bar seats or two hours for a table. Plan C: Leonelli Taberna Photo: Courtesy of Leonelli Adjacent to Benno is Leonelli Taberna , Jonathan Benno’s ode to Roman cooking. Where the pasta at Benno is elegant and practically French in its plating and presentation, Leonelli’s is rustic and hearty: spaghetti cacio e pepe, cecamariti all’amatriciana, and a gnoccho alla Romana with braised oxtail served in a Staub roasting dish. Photo: Melissa Hom The home of the Spicy Spring slice.

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