How tasting Jamaican flavors far from home helped one writer confront Charleston’s painful past.
. At Island Time, Lemar Farrington, born and raised on the U.S. Virgin Islands, was especially excited to serve soused oysters .Love for stews also runs high in both the Lowcountry and the Caribbean—think gumbo, a dish shared by the two regions. When chef Alain Lemaire from Florida’sserved me an alluringly rich take on Poulet Neg Mawon, one bite took me right back to Cap-Haitien, where I first tasted the dish.
As the afternoon air swept the gleaming sun behind a curtain of tangerine-colored clouds, I realized, standing there holding a cold Red Stripe, that the story of Black people in Charleston isn't all sad. Here, there is beauty derived from the ashes. Here, Black people are amplifying the history of those who are no longer around to tell it themselves. My ancestors’ traditions, forged in the cauldrons on plantations, live on atop dining tables today.
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