It's bright and fresh and keeps the deeply savory anchovies front and center, but spreads the potent flavor through a crisp, acidic vinaigrette.
Nice, on France’s Mediterranean coast, is credited as the birthplace of anchoïade. The first written recipe was published in 1899. A brief paragraph in Jean-Baptiste Reboul’sinstructs the reader to mix a few anchovy filets with olive oil, some minced garlic, and, as Reboul writes offhandedly, “You can also add a splash of vinegar.” The modest instructions are a bit intimidating, as historical texts tend to be, but his notes indicate how dead simple this recipe truly is.
Some variations are bound with egg yolks or mustard; while others are thickened with nuts or dried fruit and served as a spread like olive tapenade. I preferfor its versatility and savory garlic tang. Wells’s recipe was the first, and frankly, is still the only one I’ve ever followed. You’ll see she hasn’t strayed far from Reboul’s recipe . It’s unfussy and deliciously simple.
Wells is famous for her dreamy Provençal cookbooks. She describes the dressing as part of a “sumptuous picnic of fresh foods” served to students of her cooking school after a long day’s work. Wells credits her recipe to Johannes Sailer, a chef from Provence who catered occasional lunches for her classes, serving the anchoïade with blanched cauliflower florets for dipping.
You can clean your own salt-packed anchovies, but it’s easiest to buy anchovies packed in oil. These have already been cured in salt, rinsed, and deboned, then preserved in olive oil. If you’re really into anchovies, the oil from the jar also works great in the recipe substituted for some of the olive oil.Since the spotlight here is on the taste of the anchovies, this is an opportunity to use those high-quality anchovies that may otherwise be drowned out in a heavier dressing.
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