This soup is good year-round.
I usually like my food to be straightforward with me, with no hidden gimmicks or tricks up its sleeve. Yet I also love the surprise of the cheese that’s concealed just beneath the surface of one of my favorite soups—how each spoonful of broken little creamy bits and larger silken pieces melt in my mouth.
, a take on caldo de queso. In the northern Mexican state of Sonora, beef and wheat are cooking staples, but so is cheese. And despite the fact that it’s a dry and hot landscape soup like this one is enjoyed year-round.in a garlic- and onion-heavy broth, with lots of oregano and strips of roasted green chiles. Once the potatoes are supersoft, the queso fresco joins the party, along with just a splash of milk.
Where I diverge from the traditional soup is with the amount of vegetables I add. Alongside the potatoes, I simmer summer squash until it’s tender, and at the end I add somefor fresh, sweet little bursts of flavor and texture that contrast the creamy potatoes and cheese. Before all of that, however, I sauté poblano peppers in the soup pot, which perfume the entire dish with their subtle warmth.
As for that splash of milk, I find that it acts as a flavor bridge between the bright vegetable broth and the rich queso fresco. When I was young, my mom would say that the soup becomes “a little fuller, more rounded” once the milk has been added. I finish this potato soup with a generous amount of fresh oregano, so it stays bright and green. Just a smidgen of vinegar uplifts everything, too, but lemon juice works just as well. If you’re like my dad, you’ll add a small shower of those little red pearl-like dried chiles called. But I usually just eat it as is, spoonful by spoonful, enjoying each surprise of those little pillows of creamy, silken cheese.
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