At his fall 2022 runway show ThomBrowne presented a concise, unwavering narrative: This collection is about New York as “an island of misfit toys” and the way people come to the city “to find themselves and to create themselves,” he said. See every look:
At his fall 2022 runway show—scheduled for today to better couple with his partner Andrew Bolton’s “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute—Thom Browne presented a concise, unwavering narrative: This collection is about New York as “an island of misfit toys” and the way people come to the city “to find themselves and to create themselves,” he said.
Watch a video of the show and the message will read loud and clear: We are all weirdos who can present as passable normies, letting our creativity fester beneath the surface. Bringing one’s authentic self to the party and being accepted as that authentic version of one’s self is good. “It’s so nice when you find your true self and you stay true to that,” Browne said before the show.
Browne’s authentic self is always about the gray wool suit. For fall, he has created his New York-iest version yet, letting a little air in via boxy long jackets with repp stripe piping, straight leg cuffed trousers, and voluminous pleated skirts.
Then came the toys, where you could only giggle at the ballooning proportions of a lobster look and at the mania of Browne’s craft. Another designer could spend a year making the patchwork coat just sort of tossed over a bubble repp stripe midiskirt. Giant yarns made up knits, some looks were pleated to resemble a slinky, and one preppy sweater was molded into a literal ball—“it’s more comfortable than you would think,” said the model wearing it.
That rumpled joie de vivre is something you don’t get so much of on Browne’s runways; the brand mostly relies on its ambassadors to prove that its ideas can translate. But as Dara Allen walked out onto 11th Avenue wearing her own enormous black shawl cape and started to pose it became obvious: Some people wait a lifetime for a moment like this. No wait, that’s the wrong Kelly Clarkson lyric lifted from the show’s dramatic finale.
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