From gray flannel suiting to avant-garde coifs, we’re well-versed in the visual appeal of ThomBrowneNY’s fantastical world. But what does it smell like?
’s fantastical world. But what does it smell like? Making his first foray into fragrance with a new collection of six unisex scents, the American designer has answered that question. Created in collaboration with storied Swiss fragrance maker Givaudan, each perfume is named serial number–style with the date of Browne’s birthday, 09.27.65, followed by the numbers 01 to 06, and is laced with smoky vetiver, the through-line note that binds the range together.
“I wanted these scents to be iconic, and for me an iconic fragrance, especially one that crosses for both men and women, is a vetiver,” explained Browne, wearing what else but a slim-fitting gray short suit inside his Paris showroom ahead of his Spring 2020 show on Sunday. “I’ve always loved fragrance, and I wanted to create something that was very noncommercial,” says Browne of expanding on his house codes for a unique and uncompromising olfactory experience.
Thom Browne Fragrance leads with Vetyver Absolute, the most “pure” and highly concentrated of the collection’s guiding vetiver blend. “I like a signature scent,” said Browne of the hero fragrance becoming his new go-to. “A lot of people would understand why I say it because the gray suit is very signature to my collections. I appreciate people that are drawn to a signature for themselves. And that’s why we wanted to develop more than one fragrance.
Browne’s entrée into the world of beauty arrives at a time when culture is understanding of, and shifting toward, gender fluidity, resulting in an array ofin the unisex fragrance category. The timing is certainly right—but let’s not forget that Browne, his runway often replete with men in skirts and heels, has long appreciated a nonbinary approach—and it’s only natural that his fragrance debut would be an authentic and evocative expansion of that.
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