If we can agree that Christmas is about decadence and indulgence, then we can also agree that a rich, velvety chocolate mousse with boozy things to pour on top is an absolute must.
Serve with cold whipped cream for a decadent festive treat that provides a welcome counterpoint to all those heavy puddings and pastries, there is a much-loved and valued place for raisins and citrus peel steeped in booze and unrefined sugars – stirred into puddings, say, or to fill crumbly, short pastry. Of course, I’m not denying this most obvious fact, but please don’t downplay the pivotal role that chocolate plays in the mix.
In a separate, very clean bowl, beat the egg whites to soft peaks – you should be able to hold the bowl upside down without the whites moving. Melt the chocolate and butter on a low heat over a bain-marie or in the microwave, seasoning with a small pinch of salt. Whip the cream until just thickened; if you over-beat the cream, it will turn grainy, so stop when it still flops lazily from a metal spoon. Fold the melted chocolate into the yolks, followed by the double cream. Now fold a third of the whites into the chocolate, then fold that mixture back into the remaining whites, keeping as much air in as possible. Spoon into small glasses and refrigerate.
Put the cherries in a saucepan with the sugar, lime and orange zest and star anise, and set it over a medium heat. Pour in the tequila and simmer gently for eight to 10 minutes, until the cherries lose their shape and form a syrupy sauce. Stir in the tarragon, if using, turn off the heat, remove the star anise and add the lime and orange juice.
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