The Kotor Serpentine seldom has enough width to let two cars pass. Coaches are only allowed to travel it one way (upwards) and at certain times of year.
The rain is glistening on Kotor’s cobblestones and mist is entangled in its fortifications as I eat breakfast. Then, as we set off on our day’s excursion, the sun breaks through the clouds, and cats stretch languorously on warming cobblestones.“We have quite a fantastic road ahead of us,” says local guide Pavle on our first morning in Montenegro, and he isn’t exaggerating. I’ll see plenty of rugged scenery on a Collette tour of the mountainous Balkans, but none as splendid as this.
We aren’t long out of Kotor before the switchbacks start. Almost immediately splendid views appear over rusting crash barriers. The road narrows. Tree branches scratch against one side of the coach. On the other, a big blue drop showcases the Bay of Kotor, the Mediterranean’s most mighty, fjord-like indentation.Of course, I’m glad I’m not driving, but being in a coach adds to my sense of fear. We’re all used to cars, but coaches are something else.
The Serpentine was engineered by the Austrians in 1897, when this region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The journey between Kotor and Cetinje is 36 kilometres, but the most dramatic part is the 8.3-kilometre middle section of 16 hairpin bends. At switchback 10 the views become even more dramatic. Old fortifications and World War I bunkers cling to cliffs. Kotor Bay is magnificent below. From the 13th bend – site of a ruined customs house that once marked the Austro-Montenegrin border – the switchbacks get closer together as we near the summit. “If you’ve tried our rakia, you’ll know why we have such curvy roads,” jokes Pavle, referring to the strongly alcoholic national tipple.
Australia Latest News, Australia Headlines
Similar News:You can also read news stories similar to this one that we have collected from other news sources.
The Great Fan Standoff and the Thrill of Council Clean UpA humorous account of a heated argument over an old fan during Council Clean Up day. The author recounts witnessing two men vying for possession of the discarded appliance, ultimately leading to a surprising victory for one party.
Read more »
Funchal's Toboggans: A Thrill Ride Through the CityExperience the exhilarating rush of Funchal's toboggan rides, careening through city streets in a traditional wicker basket sledge piloted by strong men in straw hats. This heart-pumping adventure takes you on a two-kilometer journey filled with twists, turns, and breathtaking speed.
Read more »
Melbourne Storm bring families together as modern-day fans seek different thrillOlder fans attracted to the game’s physicality are being joined by a new generation who enjoy the family aspect of match days – as well the Storm’s relentless success
Read more »
Country diary: Slipping down a cliff face, searching for a fading bloomLecale, County Down: This colony of tall sea lavender was lost for most of the 21st century. What a thrill it is to crouch down beside it
Read more »
Russell Findlay appointed leader of Scottish ConservativesRelative newcomer to Holyrood beats Murdo Fraser and Meghan Gallacher after a contest marred by infighting
Read more »
Wanyonyi beats Arop but Rudisha’s world record remains intactEmmanuel Wanyonyi won the 800m at the Diamond League final in Brussels, but could not beat David Rudisha’s world record
Read more »