Label doubles down on house codes as empty birdcage signals its last creative director – Virginie Viard – has flown
he birdcage on the Chanel catwalk was empty, its door swung open. A metaphor for a house that is without a designer after Virginie Viard’s– the bird has flown – and a Chanel Easter egg, a wink to a teenage Vanessa Paradis swinging in a birdcage in a 1991 advertisement for Coco fragrance that was itself a reference to the birds Coco herself kept in her Paris home.
At the Grand Palais, an ornate landmark in central Paris, the front door has been renamed the Gabrielle Chanel entrance, Chanel having footed the €25m bill for renovation in time for its reopening as a Under Karl Lagerfeld, the Grand Palais was transformed for shows into a space rocket launch pad, a supermarket, a beach, or a cruise ship. Chanel’s next designer has big shoes to fill. “We are not in a hurry. This is not about finding a designer who will be here for two years, it is finding the right person who can embrace the huge scale of Chanel, and lead a new vision in the long term.
“Some designers love disruption, but at Chanel we love loyalty and continuity. Gabrielle Chanel installed the best codes, and Karl was the best at modernising them, and Virginie continued in the same direction. Chanel is bigger than any designer, and Chanel stays Chanel,” was Pavlovsky’s only comment, hinting that some of the more fiery names could be out of contention.
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