Discover the hidden treasures of Venice, from ancient apothecaries and specialist wine cellars to mask-making workshops and grand baroque salons. This article explores the city's rich history of craftsmanship and its unique atmosphere, revealing the secrets that lie beyond the crowded tourist streets.
From an elegant apothecary to a jeweller's in a baroque salon, these stores all have atmospheric interiors and a history of exquisite craftsmanship. But Venice is a city of secrets, where the extraordinary often hides in plain sight. Take, for example, Al Bottegon, a 150-year-old wood-beamed cantina that sits right on the edge of a canal and is a favourite stop on all the city's walking tours.
But the faithful local clientele at Al Bottegon, as the bar is known, come because it is one of Venice’s few specialist wine cellars, as Alessandra’s sons, Tommaso and Paolo, have amassed an unparalleled selection from vineyards in the surrounding Veneto and Friuli regions, alongside rare vintages from across Italy. It is also the place to come if you are looking to take home a bottle of quality grappa. Calle del Fumo is a bustling alleyway leading to Fondamente Nove, where boats depart for the islands of the lagoon. But a steady stream of visitors also come specifically to visit the narrow brick-walled Stamperia Basso, a printing workshop, showroom and museum. The printing trade has been associated with Venice for centuries, and since 1981 Basso has been producing exquisite bespoke stationery – writing paper, bookmarks, business cards and invitations – using ancient hand-operated presses and a collection of metal typefaces, copper plates and woodblock stamps. Although the cards of movie stars, musicians, poets and royalty are displayed on the stamperia’s walls, everyone is welcomed equally by this genial printer known as the Gutenberg of Venice. Not surprisingly, there is no website or email, ensuring clients must either visit in person or send snail mail to order by post. The crowds of visitors walking along Strada Nova, the main drag between Venice’s train station and the Rialto Bridge, often walk straight past this neighbourhood pharmacy, missing one of the hidden gems of the glorious Settecento era of Casanova’s Serenissima. This ancient apothecary, rather grandly known as the Pharmacy of the Golden Hercules, dates back to the 17th century, and today is divided into a regular pharmacy and an adjoining salon restored to its sumptuous wood-panelled original, with walnut cabinets and lustrous lamps, gilded scales and delicate ceramic jars. Here they sell Murano glass bottles from local artisan perfumery. Sometimes it looks as though there are more food tour groups than local shoppers wandering around Venice’s historic Rialto market. But the one shop in the maze of streets around the market that is always crowded, essentially by Venetians, is Officina del Gusto. Harking back to Venice’s historic role in the spice trade, turmeric, nutmeg, cinnamon and star anise are piled high in the window. And then there are the irresistible slabs of chocolate and vintage glass jars filled with sweets. The list of must-buys goes on and on, and that is before you enter their exceptional wine cellar, stacked with rare vintages.Officina della Maschera is pretty much a hole-in-the-wall, decorated with remarkable artisan masks covering every inch of the walls. In the middle, maestro Sergio Boldrin patiently paints his latest creation, handmade from papier-mache at a larger atelier 15 minutes walk away where his brother, Massimo, works. It is rare to see a master mask-maker in action but Sergio is usually in the bottega, always willing to chat with customers and explain his technique and inspiration. He started painting masks in 1979 for a local theatre company and opened the bottega in 1984. Aside from classic carnival masks, such as Arlecchino, Pantalone, the Bauta and long-nosed Plague Doctor, he also makes more audacious contemporary designs. He collaborated on Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut and has exhibited in New York, London and Paris. is more like a sumptuous baroque salon with ornate Murano chandeliers, marble statuettes, antique furniture and velvet brocades. Venetian-inspired pieces such as the iconic lapis lazuli gondola brooch, which is encrusted with diamonds and sapphires, are seriously expensive. But it is still worth stopping by to window shop, and almost next door is the 1720 landmark of Venetian gothic architecture where you do not have to spend a lot of money to admire its walls and ceilings decorated with flamboyant Liberty frescoes is the down-to-earth neighbourhood market hall. This ochre red palatial food hall dominates a bustling square lined with cafe terraces, and the elaborate facade declares the 1915 building as the Teatro Italia. Over the years it was first a cinema then a lecture hall for university students. Then, in 2016, the Despar group created what the press christened “the most beautiful supermarket in Italy”. While these days locals barely bother to look up at the murals, this is a favourite place for tourists to admire the artworks while stocking up for a picnic or for cooking at home. is Nicolao’s wood carving workshop. So it is no surprise that extrovert costume designer Stefano Nicolao chose the ground floor of a grand gothic palazzo on Cannaregio’s Misericordia canal to open his workshop and showroom,
Venice Italy Travel Hidden Gems Craftsmanship History Atmosphere Architecture Wine Masks Apothecary Baroque Shopping
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