Vintage Jewelry Has Never Been More Desirable. Here’s What Dealers Say Is Trending.

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Vintage Jewelry Has Never Been More Desirable. Here’s What Dealers Say Is Trending.
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Hint: Bold, gold and ultra-glam looks from the 1980s and '90s are fresh to market—and top of mind for holiday shoppers.

“Certain gold jewelry by Georges L’Enfant is the soup, if you will. He was a machinist in Paris who started in the ’40s and came to prominence in the ’50s and ’60s. His name was not as familiar, but he made jewelry for Van Cleef & Arpels, Hermès, Cartier. He did all kinds of chains, like the Hermès anchor chain. The original one was done by him and it was braided and wired and twisted.

Calder, again, is getting very difficult to find. It seems to go in waves. Last year we had a few more pieces available, that we were able to buy, but this year, it’s harder. That’s generational. The next generation may not want it so it becomes available. What’s fashionable now are a lot of pieces that are more esoteric and design-based—like great old [Georges] Fouquet, which may be made of rock crystal and onyx and the value is in the diamond clasp. I just bought an early version Suzanne Belperron necklace with turquoise, rock crystal and black lacquer. It’s so fabulous, but there’s not a diamond in it. It’s not about the diamonds. The style is so chic.

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