Restaurants are filling up again as clubs welcome daytime revellers, but the city remains under a cloud of war
alking around a small outdoor street market in a pretty Kyiv courtyard, one could be forgiven for forgetting for a brief moment thatis in the midst of a brutal war that not long ago saw some of its bloodiest fighting just a few miles from the capital.
“We donate all the money we make to the armed forces. We are here for them,” said Yana Koval behind a clothes stall. Koval was also selling anti-war souvenirs and handmade bracelets that ridiculed Russia’s president, Vladimir Putin. “We are trying to go on with our lives. But the pain is always there,” she said.
The city still has a daily 11pm curfew, and on a recent Sunday afternoon, lines emerged outside a nightclub, which now hosts day parties. “People are going on dates again and celebrating birthdays,” she said, adding that she completely understood that people needed a way to let off steam. Just across the street, Valeriy Shevchenko, the manager of a small gallery, says he too is seeing his art space slowly coming back to life.Photograph: Pjotr Sauer/The Observer
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