In the new Wes Anderson film, the chestnut holiday treats are powerful enough to bribe a prison guard.
While marrons glacés are the kind of cultural touchpoint that most expats observe with rosy-hued appreciation, I can’t say I’ve always understood the hype . But perhaps I’m biased by experiences with their roasted cousins, which are sold in France in paper cones as a wintry street food. I’ve been seduced by their earthy, smoky aroma only to be disappointed by a taste that leaves something wanting.
“I really like the flavor of the marron itself and found that oftentimes marrons glacés tasted mostly like sugar,” Dolfi told me by phone. “I was a bit obsessed with making a marron glacé that wasn’t too sweet, which isn’t easy because the sugar tenderizes and conserves the marron.” She continued, “You need an equilibrium between the sugar,And so, Dolfi worked with an expert artisan for years to achieve the specific flavor profile she had in mind.
“Oh la la. It’s a long time,” said Dolfi. “It’s a real craft to make the marron glacé and there’s a huge number of steps. There’s the cooking, then you let them rest, then you dip them in a bath of sugar syrup, and repeat five or six times, draining the syrup after each time.” I told her that it sounded pretty impossible. “It’s not impossible to do at home, but you’d need a lot of time and patience. The quality of the marron is also very important.
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