Thirty years ago, the capital’s fashion scene was in the shadow of its rivals. Now a new exhibition – featuring pieces worn by Björk and Sam Smith – charts the city’s nightlife-inspired resurgence
that impressed Donatella Versace so much that she later hired Kane to work on her line Versus.
Thirty years ago, Britain was in the grip of a recession and London fashion week was feeling its impact. Starry names such as Vivienne Westwood had decamped to show in Paris, and with only 14 names on the London schedule, editors and stylists were reluctant to travel to the capital. However, visitors to this exhibition won’t get to see his earliest collection. Instead, a room projects the voice of his former housemate and fellow designer Simon Ungless recalling how it was lost shortly after the showcase at the Ritz. Shoving the collection into bin bags afterwards, the duo headed to their favourite club. Unable to pay for the cloakroom, they hid the bags behind a bin. Later, when they went to gather the bags, they were gone. The collection has never been traced.
One wall in the exhibition features a timeline about the struggle that art schools and students now face. In 1993, education was free. Five years later, under Tony Blair’s leadership, tuition fees were introduced, while today Brexit continues to discourage many EU students from applying. Rishi Sunak recently announced plans to cap the number of students doing “low-value” university degrees.
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