‘What is beauty?’: Balenciaga’s Demna on creating thoroughly modern haute couture

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‘What is beauty?’: Balenciaga’s Demna on creating thoroughly modern haute couture
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*.

Balenciaga’s 52nd couture collection by Demna, photographed at the house’s haute couture salon at 10 Avenue George V, Paris. Looks throughout are from Balenciaga’s 52nd couture collectionThe rows of guests filming Balenciaga’s 52nd couture collection show in Paris turned the glittering spectacle into a cloud of digital confetti.

But what does it mean to be human when a half smile to the camera will open your bank statement and a fingerprint can unlock a hotel room door? At the heart of couture is flesh and bone, the many skilled pairs of hands working mostly in time-honoured ways. When it is mentioned today, we are often suspicious of its sorcery, anxious about its place in modern life yet happily floored by its splendour.

Couture should make us raise an eyebrow and gasp for air. ‘I can’t remember the last time I had that feeling,’ says Demna. ‘It’s very rare. It doesn’t happen to me when I go to an art exhibition and it should, but it doesn’t. I might love something, but not to the point where I’m breathless, awe-inspired.’

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