What it’s like to kayak the most dangerous Great Lake

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What it’s like to kayak the most dangerous Great Lake
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With a reputation for fickle weather and ravaging storms, Lake Superior is a boater's figurative Mount Everest

—offer enough safe havens, with their sandy anchorages and sheltered coves, to make them the ideal destination for experienced boaters to dip their proverbial toe into Lake Superior.

The size of a sandspit on Outer Island is constantly shifting due to often ferocious gales that batter the island.“Most people outside of the Upper Midwest have never heard of the Apostle Islands,” says Tom Irvine, the chairman of the, a non-profit fundraising partner for the five national park sites on Lake Superior. “I’m kind of surprised how many people in the Upper Midwest haven’t heard of them either.

To commemorate the National Lakeshore’s 50th anniversary in 2020, Tom Irvine, along with National Geographic photographer David Guttenfelder, a native Midwesterner and kayaker, and Neil Howk, the park’s former assistant head of interpretation, had an ambitious mission to circumnavigate every island by kayak last summer and fall.Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited.: The 2.8-mile Tombolo Trail on Stockton Island leads past a bog.

“You plan an itinerary based on where you want to be, then be prepared to make changes because of weather,” says Neil Howk, who has helped kayakers plan trips for three decades. “If you’re planning to be out six days, at least one of those nights you’re not going to end up where you intended to.”

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