What Makes a Good Bar?

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What Makes a Good Bar?
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Jen Agg's new Toronto restaurant, Bar Vendetta, is a pasta and wine bar with highballs and late-night nachos

Toronto restaurateur Jen Agg has a reputation for crafting just the right vibe at her restaurants. They tend to be warm and inviting; cool, without feeling trendy. Agg’s last project saw her revamping Toronto icon the Swan into, a French diner that marries bistro standards with diner classics in a room that recalls the beloved restaurant it once was. She spent this past summer transforming her own icon of Toronto dining into something else entirely.

The idea is for a pasta-focused restaurant with “wine for miles.” Agg says the pasta, from chef and partner James Santon, will stick to the Italian tradition of using relatively local ingredients, without being “extremely Italian.” There will also be salads and, in a clear nod to the Black Hoof, charcuterie.

“Basically we are just having fun and doing whatever we want,” Agg says. For example, the bar will serve both highballs and late-night nachos, two items that fall far outside the pasta and wine categories, “for fun.” But when it comes to creating the right vibe, or put simply, a space that people feel good in, Agg notes that the food is almost beside the point. “There are way more places to eat and drink well than there are places that master vibe,” she says.

Agg says “not even a ghost” of the Black Hoof, her first restaurant in the space, lingers at Bar Vendetta. The right vibe comes from lighting, music, and “warmth, in all senses,” according to the restaurateur, whose 2017 restaurant

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