Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Miuccia Prada, Tory Burch and more discuss how they’ve managed to not only grow their own labels but stay at the top of the game.
How eight veteran designers have not only grown their own labels over decades but also managed to stay at the very top of the game.Marc Jacobs wears his own clothing and accessories. Photographed by Ethan James Green. Makeup by Sam Visser for Dior Beauty at art partner; Lighting Director: James Sakalian; Photo assistants: Sam Kang, Kaitlin Tucker; Makeup assistant: Shimu Takanori; Production assistant: Andy Martinez.
Looking at those who have remained at the helm of their own labels for decades, it’s hard to describe how phenomenally impossible that goal must have looked when they were starting out. Jacobs was famously fired from his first job, at Perry Ellis, following his grunge collection in 1992, but his groundbreaking work for Louis Vuitton established a new archetype: the multitasking, globe-trotting, insanely rich designer.
Tory Burch, who founded her label in 2004, was one of the first to emphasize a primarily direct-to-consumer model, with both e-commerce and online content channels. What sounds normal today was considered wildly disruptive at the time. “People told me that I was crazy, and they thought it was really strange that I included other designers’ work on our website with ‘Tory Daily,’ which was one of the first fashion blogs,” says Burch.Photographed by Andreas Laszlo Konrath.
Still, there is no blueprint for how to get ahead in fashion without really, really trying. For most designers, success had to do with drive, talent, and being in the right place at the right time. And the 1990s were one of the best times to be starting out in fashion; the decade saw a fabulous explosion of fin de siècle creativity bankrolled by tycoons who were in a race to build what would become today’s massive luxury conglomerates.
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