There are other ways to sample the city’s pleasures than simply crowding into its most famous locations.
I don’t mean to enter Venice by the back door, but I’m glad I do. Upon exiting Santa Lucia train station and taking in the extraordinary set dressing of the scene before me – the Grand Canal, gondolas, gracious facades – I unwittingly choose a vaporetto that’s heading away from the prime tourist zone, chugging along the broad Giudecca Canal.
At 11.30am each day there’s a free “Peggy Talk” tour, which I’m just in time to join. American guide Georgiana tells our small group the backstory of Peggy Guggenheim, described as the “black sheep” of a famous family which made its fortune in mining.
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