Currently, less than one per cent of clothing is recycled.
The lack of infrastructure currently in place remains a problem when it comes to scaling up recycling within fashion. “We [can] have the most recyclable garment in the world but if we don’t have the infrastructure in place to get it to the right recycling technology, then that’s where we fall down,” Riley says. “Traditionally, collecting and sorting has been done for resale and [that] is very different to sorting for recycling.
There’s no doubt that scaling up recycling within fashion will require huge amounts of investment, withlikely to speed up the process. The European Union is currently looking at introducing Extended Producer Responsibility laws, which would make brands financially responsible for the collection, sorting and recycling of textiles . “In order to satisfy the speed that’s required, policy does need to step in – I think that’s the only way,” Grogan comments.
Considering all the barriers that exist, and the sheer volume of clothing that’s being produced, recycling can’t be seen as an easy answer to fashion’s sustainability problems. Keeping clothes in circulation for longer, which involves the likes of resale, rental and repair, as well as reducing the amount of garments we consume, is crucial. “What we need to see happen is a real shift in business models,” Balmond concludes.
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