Meat alternatives now constitute a multibillion-dollar market that could be nearly 20 times larger by 2030. But in the U.S., meat is engrained in the national psyche
was my favorite meat dish, I felt confident adapting the recipe with portobellos for my first vegan Thanksgiving. But as I placed the mushrooms onto the plates of my guests—some of my closest relatives—I already sensed that I’d made a mistake. The portobellos had turned the unappealing color of organ meat. As I sliced in, they didn’t taste bad; they simply tasted like portobellos. Every single portobello I’ve ever eaten, off every single vegetarian menu anywhere.
Years before that conversation, when I first adopted what I call my “mostly vegan” diet, I hunted down the finest plant-based meats that America’s chefs had to offer. I sampled jackfruit carnitas on home-pressed masa tortillas at Gracias Madre in San Francisco, a beet-dyed seitan Reuben at the Chicago Diner, and the namesake sandwich at Superiority Burger in New York City. All were just as delicious, and functionally not replicable in my daily life, as Thomas Keller’s short ribs.
Now that I’ve eaten just about every major product on the market, I appreciate each for its distinctive sensations. I find myself wishing I could mix and match their traits to create a supermeat of sorts, one plant meat to rule them all. I’m fascinated by the way that Daring chicken chunks char up in a pan, just like a leg of chicken on the grill. And the way an Impossible Burger “bleeds” heme, a meaty-tasting form of iron that’s produced here with soy protein instead of animal protein.
I am not simply referring to the original plant meats: tofu, commonly thought to have been invented during the Han dynasty circa 150 B.C., or seitan, thought to have been developed in the area even earlier. In Mexico, corn tortillas and beans marry the essential amino acids to create a complete protein. Across South America, it’s beans and rice. In Ethiopia, it’s lentils and the ancient grain teff.
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