Medieval towns, dramatic coastal paths and breathtaking castles await in this enchanting corner of Wales.
Castles. It’s easy to become blasé about them when you’re travelling in Europe. From shelled-out relics to opulent chateaux, they’re rarely far from view. And that’s doubly so in Wales, where more than 400 castles scatter a country half the size of Switzerland. But even the most jaded fortress- hopper will be spellbound by Caernarfon Castle.
By the medieval town walls of Caernarfon, we board the Welsh Highland Railway, Britain’s longest narrow-gauge heritage railway. Its locomotives chug and choo-choo 40 kilometres past Snowdonia’s vertiginous ridges, glacial lakes and burbling streams. You can hop off at quaint stone-built villages like Beddgelert and walk through gloriously lush meadows grazed by some of Wales’ 10 million or so sheep . Snowdonia is now also officially known by its Welsh name, Eryri.
Our base in Anglesey is Beaumaris, a genteel, strait-hugging town that’s home to another of Edward I’s hulking fortresses . We stay a few doors down at The Bull’s Head, a 15th-century inn with atmospheric nooks and crannies, including the low-ceilinged, timber-beamed bar where I nurse a Welsh Penderyn whisky, eavesdrop on the locals’ sing-song conversations and creak the floorboards while nosing among memorabilia about notable former guests.
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