California Zinfandel is getting a sophisticated makeover.
But Zin, it seems, was a victim of its own success—and everyone still thinks its feathered bangs define it.
As terroir-driven as Capri Sun, it’s a wonder the “cougar juice” didn’t jettison Zinfandel from the cellars of serious collectors for all of eternity. But in the past decade or so, serious winemakers have been reshaping their approach to Zinfandel, focusing on sourcing old vine, dry farmed grapes from key areas of the Golden State—especially Sonoma—and creating lighter, more nuanced versions of the effusive grape in the process.
The grape can also—unlike its colleagues—be picked early or late in the season, with the goal of underlining drastically different characteristics. Earlier picks will lead to lighter Zinfandels, while longer hang-times will create opulent, higher-alcohol expressions—but both can be excellent. in Sonoma. “We don’t just look at the numbers though. I’ll see how easily it can be removed from the stem. I’ll look at the seeds to see if they’re green or brown.”, says he avoids making “big Zinfandels,” starting in the vineyard. To achieve the consistency he wants, he says his vineyard team will often pick one nine-acre parcel five times by hand.
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