Considering the almighty slice at Mo’s General in Williamsburg.
Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland Every New Yorker has at some point been asked this question by a friend visiting from out of town: Where do I go for great pizza? Surely the person asking could easily jump onto Google and find the best-of lists that tend to include Di Fara and Lucali and John’s of Bleecker Street — the places that people who live in New York don’t tend to go to very often, or at all, because waiting in line for two hours to eat some pizza is fundamentally at odds with the point...
“Slice-shop culture is what sets New York apart,” says Katzenberg, an East Coast native who was a founding partner of the Prospect Heights hot spots Olmsted and Maison Yaki. He and Murdock are not alone in thinking this, of course, and they are not the only people who believe that it is time for the slice to finally get its due. Mo’s joins a small handful of new-look slice joints — F&F, Baby Luc’s, L’industrie, Paulie Gee’s — that have sprung up around New York in recent years.
But Katzenberg and Murdock are confident in the idea of being, first and foremost, a “neighborhood” spot. The word comes up over 30 times in our conversation outside on their beautiful streetside patio. Murdock lives a block away from the shop, and they both stress that they’ve taken time to know their neighbors, and that they want to respect its history as a little Italian American enclave. They know that if they’re going to serve pizza, it had better be the real deal.
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