Forget salt and vinegar: today’s chips are piled high with chutney, tofu, lasagne and even ice-cream. Here’s how to recreate chefs’ most comforting recipes
. In that same period pub chip sales were up 15%, according to analysts Lumina Intelligence. These brash stacks of top-loaded fries, a street food staple, are going mainstream.
Whether using frozen oven fries or triple-cooking chips from scratch , a robust, well-bronzed chip is preferable. Undercooked chips too readily absorb moisture and, “once loaded, turn to mulch,” warns Zoë Perrett, co-owner of burger brand Slap & Pickle.“Pile it high does not apply,” says Perrett, who prefers an even layer of “crisp, well-drained” fries in a shallow vessel. Go high and under the topping you may find “a layer of nude, probably soggy fries”, she warns.
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