Deluxe, restaurant-quality sandwiches have become a national obsession. Here’s why tuna mayo will never be the same again
t’s a weekday lunchtime and about 30 people, mostly millennials in fashionable hiking trainers, are milling around in an alleyway off London’s Hackney Road. The scent of a wood-fired oven wafts in as everyone waits for the sandwich they preordered the night before; a maximum of 200 will be sold. Rogue Sarnies isn’t the only sandwich place taking preorders these days. Eric’s and Chatsworth Bakehouse, both in London, and Fat Pat’s in Manchester do it too.
It is common to see queues and cult outlets in major cities and beyond. Manchester has Rack and Bada Bing as well as Fat Pat’s, and in 2022 local website Eat MCR declared “Manchester’s golden age of sandwiches is upon us”. Alby’s is making waves in Edinburgh, and Cabin sells its chicken shawarma sandwiches from a business park in Buckinghamshire. In London, Dom’s Subs, down the road from Rogue Sarnies, opened in 2020 and quickly gained a following.
In Manchester, I find myself in a slightly seedy backstreet, dodging wheelie bins. At a hole in the wall I find Fat Pat’s; I ring the bell and a server opens the hatch. Fat Pat’s offers huge, American-inspired subs with fillings including Nashville spicy fried chicken and Philly cheesesteak with crispy onions and a gooey five-cheese mix. They aren’t cheap, ranging from £13-17 with a drink, but they are delicious: well balanced with soft bread, crunchy fillings and plenty of sauce.
Another of Leeds’s most hyped spots is five miles west in the suburb of Bramley, on a quiet high street boasting a Chinese takeaway and kebab shop. The sandwiches at Silver’s Deli are completely different to those at Things in Bread, but equally popular. “It’s been pretty mad since day one,” founder Chris Riley-Smith says. “I love food trends, and I knew sandwiches were going to be massive.
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