From fireworks and Kylie Jenner for Coperni to a supersized birdcage at Chanel and target practice at Dior, the shows in the French capital were en pointe for spring
The show opened with multidisciplinary archer Sagg Napoli, who was inside a glass box, firing an arrow to cue the entrance of models. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri clearly still had the Olympics on her mind, with sporting references continuing throughout the collection. The mostly monochrome looks saw jackets and shirts cut to fall off one shoulder and accessorized with gauntlet gloves.
Chemena Kamali called the show The Freedom collection because she ‘wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel’. Taking the essence of Chloé’s roots as her starting point, what followed was an evolution of her first collection, complete with high-waisted flared jeans and bathing suits, one with a pink flamingo motif. The palette of sun-faded apricot, blush, pale yellow, mint and dusty blue burst into bloom.
‘Life is beautiful with all its ups and downs.You have to give meaning to it. Get a life!’ Creative director Andreas Kronthaler quoted Vivienne Westwood’s famous saying in his show notes. The focus for SS25 was womenswear, taking Kronthaler on a new path, brimming with beautifully constructed pieces, classic elegance and feminine sexiness.
Louise Trotter chose to show her latest collection at Carven’s historic headquarters on the Champs-Élysées. Within the designs there was a sense of freedom and nonchalance, voluminous silhouettes emerged in tactile textures and delicate tones; the deceptively simple constructions echoed a lightness and fluidity.
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