Its biodynamic system of organic farming might be contentious. But the fortunes of this winemaker are rising.
Like most winemakers, Sergio Carlei is fascinated by terroir – the way that the soil, rainfall and other physical characteristics of a vineyard site produce distinct qualities in the wine made from it.two single-vineyard shirazes from Heathcote in central Victoria that are clear expressions of terroir. Nord, from vines planted on the deep red soils in the warmer north of the region, is fuller and richer in style; Sud, from a cooler, granite soil site further south, is spicier and sinewy.
On an astro calendar “fruit day”, he picked one batch, and the rest 24 hours later, when the lunar cycle had slipped into a “root day” . I first tasted his experiments from the 2007 vintage – blind, without knowing which was “fruit” and which “root” – and was equally impressed. And I saw those differences repeatedly over subsequent years.
Carlei isn’t the only vigneron following the calendar. One of Australia’s most respected winemakers, Vanya Cullen in Margaret River in Western Australia, also swears by it.
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