Highly Recommend: Apteka in Pittsburg for inventive vegan polish food.
I first heard aboutduring one of the recurring conversations I have back home in Pittsburgh with my mother. The one where she tells me how Andy Warhol came to her small town of Butler, Pennsylvania, in 1949 to say goodbye to his family before his big move to New York City.
I was immediately intrigued by the promise of a restaurant simultaneously tied to the city’s long Polish history and rooted in the present . Since the mid-1800s, Eastern European flavors made their way through Pittsburgh and the surrounding former steel county, including Butler, primarily in the form of pierogies, which have since been a staple in old-school delis, church basements, and late-night dive bars.
But Apteka’s owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski have changed the game with an entirely vegan menu. I was blown away on my first visit. They stuff thick, rough-hewn pierogies with smoky greens; ferment nuts to make creamy yogurts and sauces for tartines; and forage with Skowronski’s Polish parents for chanterelle mushrooms, which they pickle and serve as zakaski, a delicious spread of naturally leavened dark rye bread, fermented beet tops, and mushroom paté.
After that, I was sold on this whole Polish vegan food concept. Now I can’t stop telling all my friends about Apteka—minus the Andy Warhol part.
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