Teeming with wildlife under lush canopies, this area in Australia’s island state is one of the world’s most remarkable – and one most in need of protection
itnessing Takayna/Tarkine is a rare privilege. After I press through metres of the dense, dry shrubs that skirt the forest floor, the rainforest quickly opens into a dewy landscape of verdant greens bathed in golden light. The ground is a ballroom floor, moist to the touch, carpeted in soft mosses and punctuated by broad myrtle trunks. Tiny ferns unfurl towards the canopy, where shafts of sunlight streak through the treetops. It is an overwhelmingly beautiful place.
However, it doesn’t include Takayna within its borders, leaving it untouched by the protections afforded by the title. Today, only a fraction of Takayna is conserved under a national heritage listing. There is broad consensus among those who have studied Takayna’s forests that the area exhibits a more than adequate showing for international recognition and protection.
The forest and its bordering lands were altered, managed and maintained by these original custodians. There are numerous sites of archaeological significance between the Arthur and Pieman rivers, including middens, ceremonial stone arrangements, petroglyphs carved into coastal rocks and depressions left by semi-permanent beehive-shaped huts.
As I sit for a moment in silence in the company of the trees, I’m frequently captured by the low “tut” call of the pink robin, a small ball-shaped bird with an impossibly pink breast that bounces in and out of my camera frame with infuriating speed.Takayna is also home to the giant freshwater crayfish, a gargantuan azure-shelled creature also known as the giant freshwater lobster, which grows up to a frankly absurd overall length of one metre and up to 6kg in weight.
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