Steadily rising water levels have scientists predicting that San Marco will be permanently underwater and uninhabitable by as early as 2100.
Between Christmas and New Year in 2017, although it was cold and wet, the small gelato shop in the heart of Venice’s San Marco was packed. I was there to research my book,. As our gelati was being scooped into paper cups, I remarked to the middle-aged man behind the counter that I was fascinated by the way the water from the canal splashed right up against the building, almost as high as the ground floor windows.
“Soon that step will also be gone. Not long after, the building will not be safe to live in and one day it will crumble.”When I’d spent time in Venice previously, it was with nothing more than the abstract idea that the city was sinking. I had seen footage on TV of the floodwaters closing down the main piazzas and of tourists wandering about with raincoats on wooden planks erected across the main streets.
I wrote about the artisans who spent weeks labouring over traditional Venetian masks or creating intricate jewellery from Murano glass, who sat in their empty shops and explained to me that the tourists instead piled into the pop-up stores and stocked up on cheap knock-off products.
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