This list will make your kitchen a butter place
If you’re used to red-sauce cooking and think Italian food begins with spaghetti, progresses to pizza and ends at lasagna, then this book, initially published by a Milanese architecture and design magazine in 1950, will surprise you with its breadth, and relative paucity of tomatoes. But there’s a reason it is a mainstay of Italian homes and probably the country’s bestselling cookbook.
It’s impossible to write “the” American-food cookbook: America is immense, immigrant-fuelled and therefore culinarily protean. Fifty years ago pizza and bagels were niche, big-city ethnic foods; now they are found everywhere. A century ago, terrapin soup and canvasback duck were the height of sophistication; Americans ate both species nearly to extinction. New dishes rise and older ones fall away constantly.
Set aside the accessibility and deliciousness of this book’s recipes. Never mind that they can almost all be made from readily available ingredients without breaking a sweat or the bank. Two things make this cookbook, among all South Asian offerings and beyond, stand out. The first is Meera Sodha’s recipe for rice, which is perfect and foolproof . The second is her prose.
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