The chef on his childhood on a farm, why his restaurant’s oysters are the best, and how to do St Patrick’s Day properly
‘I was brought up in a farmhouse in the countryside where there were rabbits, pheasants, butter-making, it was all going on.’‘I was brought up in a farmhouse in the countryside where there were rabbits, pheasants, butter-making, it was all going on.’
It is probably the most important thing: stay inquisitive, like people, and keep knowledge flowing through your ears and your eyes. Listen, read and taste. Keep all that going and And don’t become old, fight ageing.There was always a wild salmon coming and going into our house. But nobody intellectualised food: it was just food for the table. The smell of bread is the overriding memory: that’s why we make bread for all our restaurants.
if you are going to eat a chop, you must eat the offal, eat the whole animal. If not, be a vegetarianAnd for good reason. We look after our oysters with religious zeal. Because oysters can cause a lot of problems: there should be a warning sign at certain times of the year, especially when a lot of people won’t keep them in the filtration baths for around 36 hours. And our oysters come straight to us from the coast.
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