The glories of pan-fried jeon await in Koreatown

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The glories of pan-fried jeon await in Koreatown
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What to order at Koreatown’s latest draw, the Michelin Guide’s latest star ratings and more in this week’s Tasting Notes newsletter.

Jeon are often described in English as “savory Korean pancakes,” though that doesn’t quite capture the breadth of possibilities in these battered, pan-fried snacks.

Yes, they can be round griddle cakes — palm-size and laced with mild flaked pollock, perhaps, or nearly as big as a hubcap, as in the thick, sizzling-crisp spheres called pajeon that are visibly brimming with seafood and scallions. They can also be elaborate stacks of crab sticks, trimmed scallion and a dense mulch of minced mushroom held together by skewers before frying, or halved chilies mounded with a gently spiced mix of finely ground meat and tofu.

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